Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and travelers equally celebrating its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a exclusive list of global cities and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it becomes part of a international community of more than four hundred metropolises across over 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "is a testament to its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and dynamic gastronomic culture," as stated by a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of 70 global destinations around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this venerable city arrives as hardly a shock to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, bustling, and eclectic city – the capital of India's biggest state – is now in the global gaze for what has perennially defined its heart: an immense devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a ongoing dialogue from waking up until going to bed in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, refined, and taken to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of gastronomic creativity, merging Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was devised to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases fresh harvests but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on many street corners, there are small establishments and carts – lesser-known treasures that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, served in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a simple joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and demanding. The cook whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however note that their children are unwilling to master the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will inspire more people globally to explore these narratives and travel to the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
