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When assembling a list of London’s top eateries, one might anticipate familiar award-winning establishments. But, tucked prominently among these food heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu situated in a distant part of north London.

An Unexpected Recognition

This small Turkish eatery, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the city by a influential food magazine. This recognition has left the family utterly shocked.

“I’m completely shocked,” says a proprietor, referring to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their humble shop securing such a high position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

The little venue, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular destination, has maintained much of its former character. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking display, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” comments the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the food, and this restaurant more than delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a moist, juicy texture.

It is then added into a large pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. As the savoury mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is often enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, imparting it a more intense, toastier and less sickly flavour.

Rising Above the Stars

Notably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, equivalent meals at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is most important is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is echoed by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he were in a position of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to show what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite restaurants. “I am truly proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a personal life but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to echo beyond its own doors. “I believe a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the wider importance of this gastronomic achievement.